Finding the right bra size is only half the battle. Once you know your measurements—easily determined using our Australian bra size calculator—the next step is choosing bra styles that work with your unique body type and breast shape. The perfect bra not only fits correctly but also flatters your figure and feels comfortable all day long.
Every woman's body is different, and what works beautifully for one person might be completely wrong for another. This guide will help you understand which bra styles are most likely to suit your specific characteristics, taking the guesswork out of lingerie shopping.
Understanding Breast Shape
Before selecting a bra style, it helps to understand your breast shape. Breast shape is different from size—two women might wear the same bra size but have completely different shapes that suit different styles. Common breast shapes include round, teardrop, east-west, side-set, close-set, shallow, and projected.
Round breasts are equally full on the top and bottom, creating a circular profile. Teardrop breasts are fuller at the bottom with less tissue at the top. East-west breasts have nipples that point outward rather than forward. Side-set breasts have a wider gap between them, while close-set breasts have minimal space in between. Shallow breasts have less projection from the chest wall, while projected breasts extend further forward.
Understanding your shape helps narrow down which styles are most likely to provide a flattering fit without extensive trial and error.
Full Coverage Bras: Universal Support
Full coverage bras feature cups that cover most of the breast, with straps positioned closer to the shoulders. This style provides excellent support and is particularly well-suited to women with fuller busts or those seeking maximum coverage under work clothing.
Full coverage bras work especially well for projected and round breast shapes. The generous cup coverage accommodates volume without spillage, and the design minimises the risk of quad boob. Women with larger bust sizes often find full coverage bras provide superior support compared to other styles.
For teardrop or shallow shapes, ensure the top of the cup doesn't gap. Look for full coverage styles specifically designed for these shapes, which may have less volume at the top of the cup.
Balconette Bras: Lift and Enhance
Balconette bras feature horizontal cup lines that create a lifted, rounded appearance. The straps are typically set wider apart, making them ideal for wider necklines. This style is excellent for creating cleavage and enhancing projection.
Women with shallow or widely-set breasts often find balconette styles particularly flattering. The horizontal cup design brings the breasts together and forward, creating the appearance of more fullness. The wider strap placement also accommodates naturally spaced breasts comfortably.
Those with very full or projected breasts should choose balconette styles with taller cups to ensure adequate coverage. A balconette that's too shallow for projected breasts can result in spillage at the top.
Plunge Bras: Deep Necklines Made Easy
Plunge bras feature a deep V-shaped centre gore, making them perfect for low-cut tops and dresses. The angled cups push the breasts towards the centre, creating impressive cleavage while remaining invisible under plunging necklines.
Close-set breasts are particularly well-suited to plunge styles. The low centre gore accommodates minimal space between the breasts, allowing the gore to lie flat against the sternum rather than sitting on breast tissue.
East-west breasts also benefit from plunge bras, as the angled cups help redirect nipples forward and bring the breasts closer together. This creates a more centred appearance under clothing.
Push-Up Bras: Maximum Enhancement
Push-up bras use padding and angled construction to lift the breasts and push them together, creating enhanced cleavage and the appearance of a larger bust. Padding can range from subtle to dramatic depending on the level of enhancement desired.
Women with smaller busts often appreciate the enhancement push-up bras provide. Shallow breast shapes are particularly well-suited to this style, as the padding adds both projection and fullness.
Those with larger or projected busts may find push-up bras uncomfortable or unnecessary. The additional padding can make larger breasts feel too pushed together or create an exaggerated look that doesn't feel natural.
Bralettes: Comfort First
Bralettes are soft, unstructured bras typically made without underwires or moulded cups. They prioritise comfort over support and have become increasingly popular as everyday wear for those who find traditional bras restrictive.
Women with smaller to medium busts often find bralettes provide adequate support for daily activities. Self-supporting breasts—those that maintain their shape without significant external support—are particularly suited to bralette styles.
Larger-busted women can certainly wear bralettes, though they may not provide enough support for high-activity days. Many brands now offer bralettes with additional support features like wide bands and reinforced construction for fuller figures.
Sports Bras: Activity-Specific Support
Sports bras are designed to minimise breast movement during physical activity. They come in compression styles, which press the breasts against the chest, and encapsulation styles, which support each breast separately like a traditional bra.
Your ideal sports bra depends on both your breast size and your chosen activity. Low-impact activities like yoga may only require light compression, while high-impact activities like running demand maximum support. Larger-busted women generally benefit from encapsulation-style sports bras that provide individual support and reduce bounce more effectively.
Regardless of your usual bra size, you may find yourself needing a different size in sports bras. Use our bra size calculator as your starting point, then consult brand-specific guides, as sports bra sizing can vary significantly between manufacturers.
Wireless Bras: Comfortable Support
Wireless bras provide shaping and support without the use of underwires. Modern wireless designs use innovative construction techniques to deliver surprisingly effective support while eliminating the discomfort some women experience with underwires.
Women who find underwires uncomfortable—whether due to sensitivity, breast shape, or simply preference—often thrive with wireless options. Shallow and widely-set breast shapes sometimes fit more comfortably in wireless styles, as there's no rigid wire that needs to conform to a specific curve.
Full-busted women can find supportive wireless options, though it may require more searching. Look for wireless bras with structured cups, wide supportive bands, and reinforced construction specifically designed for larger sizes.
Finding Your Perfect Match
The best way to find your ideal bra style is to experiment with different options once you know your correct size. Start with our Australian bra size calculator to determine your measurements, then try styles that theoretically suit your shape.
Keep notes on what works and what doesn't. If a particular style consistently disappoints—always gaping at the top, never providing enough support, or uncomfortable by lunchtime—it's probably not the right match for your body, regardless of how beautiful it looks on the hanger.
Remember that you don't need to limit yourself to one style. Most women benefit from having multiple bra types for different purposes: supportive full coverage for work, pretty plunge styles for date nights, comfortable wireless options for weekends, and reliable sports bras for exercise.